DIY Midi Fish Pattern: Sew Your Own Flowy PieceA midi fish silhouette—characterized by its fitted waist and hips with a gentle flare that skims the calves—combines elegance with everyday wearability. This DIY guide walks you through drafting a custom midi fish pattern, choosing fabric, cutting, sewing techniques, and finishing touches so you can create a flattering, flowy garment tailored to your body.
What is a midi fish silhouette?
The midi fish sits between a pencil skirt and a full-circle skirt. It’s slim through the waist and hips, then gradually flares from around the knee or mid-calf into a soft, flowing hem. The result is a balance of structure and movement—sophisticated but relaxed.
Materials and tools
- Pattern paper (or large sheets of kraft/butcher paper)
- Ruler (straight and hip curve)
- Measuring tape
- Pencil, tailor’s chalk, and eraser
- French curve (optional)
- Scissors (paper and fabric)
- Pins and pattern weights
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Hand-sewing needles
- Zipper (invisible or regular) or buttons (if closure planned)
- Fusible interfacing (for waist facing or waistband)
- Fabric: lightweight to medium-weight drapey fabrics work best (rayon challis, silk crepe, lightweight linen, viscose, charmeuse). For structured versions, use woven cotton blends, heavier linen, or crepe de chine.
- Lining fabric (optional, recommended for sheerer or clingy fabrics)
- Measuring grid or chalk for marking darts, grainline, and notches
Choosing the right fabric
For the characteristic flow, pick fabrics with good drape. Rayon and viscose give a luxurious swing; silk and charmeuse add sheen; lightweight wool crepe keeps shape for cooler weather. Avoid very stiff fabrics unless you want a more structured fish silhouette. If you’re new to sewing, medium-weight rayon or a poly-blend that’s stable yet drapey is forgiving and easy to handle.
Measurements you’ll need
- Waist (natural waist circumference)
- Hips (fullest part)
- Waist to hip (vertical distance)
- Desired skirt length (waist to hem for midi—typically 70–80 cm / 27–31 in depending on height)
- Waist to flare point (where the silhouette begins to loosen—often 35–45 cm / 14–18 in from waist; adjust for preference)
- Hem circumference (choose how full you want the flare to be)
Write measurements in both cm and inches if you plan to share the pattern.
Drafting the basic pattern (half-front and half-back)
You’ll draft flat pattern pieces for half the skirt (cut on fold for front; back may be split for zipper). Use these steps to create a block you can modify.
- Prepare pattern paper and draw a vertical grainline column. Mark horizontal lines: Waist (top), Hip line (at waist-to-hip distance), Flare point (where flare begins), Hem (skirt length).
- On the waist line, mark half the waist measurement plus ease. For a fitted look use 1–2 cm ease; for more comfort use 3–5 cm. Example: For a 70 cm waist, half = 35 cm; add 1 cm ease = 36 cm. This is the total width across the half-pattern; divide as needed for darts.
- On the hip line, mark half the hip measurement plus 1–2 cm ease.
- Connect waist to hip with a smooth side seam line using a hip curve. From hip line down to flare point and hem, draw a gently curving seam that widens to your desired hem half-width (half the hem circumference plus seam allowance).
- Add seam allowances (commonly 1–1.5 cm) around all edges and a hem allowance (2–4 cm).
Adding shaping: darts, princess seams, and panels
Midi fish skirts can be shaped in several ways:
- Darts: Classic choice—mark vertical waist darts (usually two on the back, one or two on the front depending on fit). Standard dart intake is 1.5–3 cm each, adjusted to your shape.
- Princess seams: For smoother vertical shaping without visible waist darts, convert the pattern into princess seams—split the front and back pieces and add seamlines from waist to hem.
- Panels: Add additional panels (e.g., 4–6 panels) to increase flare while keeping a smooth fit through hips. Panels also make it easier to control fullness and style lines.
Example dart placement: On the back, two darts each 2 cm intake, spaced 4–6 cm from center back.
Adding the flare (fish tail)
Decide where your flare begins (flare point). From that horizontal line, gradually slash-and-spread the lower section of your pattern to add volume, or redraw a gentle outward curve from the flare point to the hem. If you want a pronounced mermaid-esque flare, add more width and consider inserting godets (triangular panels) for added movement.
Technique: Slash vertically through the skirt below the flare point at equal intervals, spread each cut by the same amount on the hem to create even fullness, then true the seams.
Sewing steps (summary)
- Transfer pattern markings to fabric; cut pieces with grainline aligned.
- Stay-stitch waist edge if fabric is bias-prone.
- Sew darts or princess seams first, press toward center/back.
- Join side seams; press allowances open or to one side.
- Insert zipper in center back or side seam; use an invisible zipper foot for invisible zippers.
- Attach waistband or facing: interface if needed, stitch to waist, understitch facing, press.
- Hem: try on and adjust length, then finish with a narrow hem, blind stitch, or 2–3 cm turned hem depending on fabric. For very slippery fabrics, roll hem with a serger or use a narrow hand-stitched hem.
- Add lining if used: baste lining to waist and hem, or attach separately with a machine blind hem.
Tips for fit and style variations
- Lower waist placement yields a more relaxed silhouette; higher waist lengthens the leg line.
- Add vents or a slit at center back for easier walking if hem is narrow.
- Curved seams or paneling can create visual length and flatter different body shapes.
- For a bias-cut midi fish, cut panels on the bias for extra drape—note: bias garments require stabilization at the waist and careful handling.
- Trim options: lace insert at hem, contrast panel, or ruffled godet for extra movement.
Common fitting issues and fixes
- Tight across hips: increase side seam or add 1–2 cm to pattern at hip line.
- Gaping waist: reduce dart intake or add a small center-back seam for adjustment.
- Uneven hem: hang skirt on a dress form and mark, or have someone help you check level while wearing shoes you’ll wear with the skirt.
- Flare not flowing: choose a more fluid fabric or add godets/extra panels.
Care and finishing
Press seams with appropriate heat setting and use a pressing cloth for delicate fabrics. Prewash fabric to prevent shrinkage and finish raw edges with a serger, zigzag stitch, or bound seams for longevity. For slippery silks, use soluble stabilizer or tissue paper under seams while sewing to prevent shifting.
Quick pattern example (for reference)
For a sample size (waist 70 cm, hips 96 cm, length 72 cm, flare point 40 cm):
- Half-waist with 1 cm ease = 36 cm
- Half-hip with 1 cm ease = 48 cm
- Hem half-width for a gentle flare = 70 cm (for a roomy midi hem ~140 cm circumference)
Draft lines as described above and add darts of 2 cm intake on back, 1.5 cm on front.
This project is a great way to learn pattern manipulation while producing a stylish, wearable piece. If you’d like, I can:
- provide a printable sloper for your exact measurements,
- convert this into a step-by-step photo sewing tutorial, or
- create measurements and pattern blocks for specific sizes.
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